Although I can walk across the street and be at the beach, I opted to take the truck and head north. My destination: well, that would be telling, but it's one of my favorite spots in the county, a relatively forgiving break that I thought would be the perfect place to test out the new board.
It occurred to me that my time between sessions could now be measured in months. Sitting on the beach, watching the small sets roll in, two thoughts: I really ought to stretch out, and holy shit this board is short. For close to two years I'd been riding my longboard (9' 2") without going smaller; prior to that, the shortest I'd gone was a 6' 10" semi-gun, and the number of sessions I'd had on that board coupled with the number of waves I'd actually ridden could be added together and counted on one hand.
The butterflies began in earnest. Was I really going to be able to ride this thing?
After stretching and watching the surf for a few minutes, I paddled out. And was pleasantly surprised. The board is wide (22"), almost as wide as my longboard, and paddled like a charm. I quickly realized how out of shape I am - my shoulders started to stiffen up almost immediately. My duckdiving concerns, however, were unfounded. Despite it's volume, I was able to execute a couple of duckdives. Once outside the meager impact zone, I sat on the board for a few, stretching my shoulders and yes, catching my breath.
I'd love to tell you that I caught the first wave I stroked into, rode it to the shore, and paddled back out to a chorus of hoots from the rest of the lineup. Didn't happen. In fact, I didn't catch anything. I did manage to somehow knick my ankle (think it happened when I hit the back of the board popping up - I forgot that I was minus a couple of feet of foam and glass). A little cut, no damage to board or bootie.
After an hour of paddling and not catching waves, the hands were numb, the head felt like it had been hit a few times by a ball peen hammer (I used to scoff at the SoCal glove-and-hoodie crowd, but now...hmm...) I decided to call it Wally. My thing with a surf session is that if you come out of the water with something - say, seeing some dolphins, or having a good chat with a friend or total stranger, or even just getting some time to sit in the water and switch off your brain - it's never a waste of time. Coming out of the water, I took a few minutes to assess myself, and realized that I needed to be a little - a lot - more aggressive on takeoff; paddle harder, drop in later. In short, stop thinking like a longboarder. And I realized something else - the last time I'd attempted to ride a shortboard, I came away frustrated, convinced that it was going to be whole lot of work, and dreading the process. Now I can't wait to give it another go.